8544771 Dryer Heating Element Upgrade 279816 Thermostat Cut
✅ PROS
- Full kit includes heating element, high-limit thermostat (279816), thermal cut-off (279973), and thermal fuse (3392519) — everything you need in one box
- Direct OEM replacement for Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, and Amana dryers; wiring harness plugs in with zero modification
- Priced 40-60% below buying the same parts separately from an appliance dealer
❌ CONS
- Some units ship with the element coil slightly out of alignment — check coil spacing before installing to avoid hot spots
- The included thermostats are generic aftermarket parts, not Whirlpool OEM; most users report fine performance, but a handful had premature failure
The Verdict
Your dryer spins, tumbles, and beeps — but the clothes come out cold and damp. That’s the classic symptom of a failed heating element or thermal fuse. At $30-$50 at a big-box appliance store, the OEM replacement stings. This 8544771 kit from the aftermarket crowd promises the same fix for less. But is “less” worth it when fire safety is involved? Here’s what 215 buyers found.
What’s actually in the box
This is a full repair kit, not just a coil. You get the 8544771 heating element assembly (the coiled wire inside the metal housing), the 279816 high-limit thermostat, the 279973 thermal cut-off, and the 3392519 thermal fuse. That’s the complete “no heat” fix for most Whirlpool-built dryers — which includes Kenmore, Maytag, and Amana badges. The wiring harness comes pre-terminated, so it plugs directly into your dryer’s existing connectors. No crimping, no soldering, no guesswork.
Performance and build quality
The element itself is a standard 240V, 5,400-watt unit — same spec as the OEM part. When it works, it works exactly as expected: heats to temperature, cycles off, holds. The thermal components are the more critical pieces, and this is where I want you to pay attention. The 279816 thermostat is a generic replacement, not a Whirlpool-stamped part. One reviewer put it plainly: “I’ve installed these kits a dozen times and this one’s fine, but I always advise people to check the coil spacing before installing. One element I got had the coil bunched up too tight in one spot.” That’s a fair warning.
The coil alignment issue is worth checking. Before you mount the element, eyeball the wire loops — they should be uniformly spaced. If any two coils are touching, the element will overheat and trip the thermal fuse again within a week. That’s a 30-second visual check that saves you a second disassembly.
Where buyers consistently praise
The overwhelming theme in the reviews is “it fixed my dryer and it was easy.” Over 80% of reviewers gave it four or five stars, and the common thread is the complete-kit convenience. As one buyer put it: “I didn’t have to figure out which of the three thermostats was dead — the kit had all of them. Replaced everything at once and the dryer’s been running hot for six months.” Another noted: “This cost me $28. The local parts store wanted $65 for just the element.” That price gap is real and it’s the strongest argument for this product.
Where it falls short
The aftermarket thermostats are the weak link. While the element itself is a solid copy, the thermal components are where Whirlpool’s OEM parts earn their premium. Roughly 5-8% of reviewers report a thermostat failing within 3-6 months, requiring a second repair. If you’re the type who wants to fix it once and never touch it again, consider buying an OEM 279816 thermostat separately (about $15) and using the kit’s element and fuse. If you’re comfortable with a possible follow-up, the kit is fine as-is.
Also note: this fits most but not all Whirlpool-built dryers. Check your model number against the compatibility list before ordering. A few buyers got it home and found the mounting bracket didn’t line up with their specific model.
Who should buy this
- The DIY homeowner with a basic multimeter and a YouTube tutorial — you’ll save $100+ vs. a service call.
- Anyone with a Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, or Amana dryer from 2010 or newer.
- Budget-minded fixers who accept the aftermarket thermostat tradeoff.
Skip it if
- You have a Samsung, LG, or GE dryer — this won’t fit.
- You want OEM-only parts and won’t compromise on the thermostats.
- Your dryer is still under warranty — let the manufacturer handle it.
FAQ
Q: How do I know if my dryer needs this part? A: If the drum spins but no heat comes, test the element with a multimeter (should read 8-12 ohms) and check the thermal fuse for continuity. If either is open, replace the whole kit.
Q: Is this safe to install myself? A: Yes, if you unplug the dryer first. It’s a simple plug-and-play swap. If you’re uncomfortable with electrical work, hire a pro — but you’ll lose most of the savings.
Q: Will this work with a 3-prong or 4-prong dryer cord? A: The heating element doesn’t care about your cord configuration. It runs on 240V regardless. The cord is a separate issue entirely.
The Verdict
This kit earns a 4.2 out of 5. It’s a genuinely good value that fixes a common problem for a fraction of OEM cost, and the coil-spacing check mitigates the main manufacturing risk. Buy it if you’re comfortable with basic appliance repair and want to save $60-$100. Skip it if OEM-only parts are non-negotiable for you, or if you’re not confident checking coil spacing before installation. For everyone else, this is the smart money move to get your dryer blowing hot again.
Where to Buy
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Last updated: 2026-08-06. Ratings and prices current as of review date. Verify on Amazon before purchasing.